Early nomads had no permanent living space, could not store and keep materials
fresh or transport large amounts of anything. However, one of the few resources
readily available to these nomads and weavers were their flocks of sheep and the
resulting meat, milk,leather and wools. When and where man first learned how to
shear sheep,process the wool, learn to spin and employ wool is one of those
questions that shall never be fully resolved. Early man used furs and skins as
clothing.

Whether wool was used first for clothing
or for creating carpets and blankets cannot be documented but for sure
wool was used in cold climates. Wool provides excellent insulation by
holding pockets of body-warmed air close to the skin. The discovery of
the Pazyryk carpet in the Altai Mountains
of Siberia, which is more than 2000 years old, shows just how long man
has been making woolen textiles. In countries across the world at
different times wool has proved to be a mainstay of economies and vital
to the wealth and physical well being of the population.
In England, whole villages and districts were involved in raising
sheep and processing wool that was exported around the globe. In Asia,
shoes and boots were constructed partly of felt from countries such as China
and even Russia.
Clothing from South America, Rome and ancient Babylon was
made from wool. Weavers have used very fine belly wool used to
create Balishts for use as sleeping cushions.
Today our weavers use only high grade Gazni wool
which is unprocessed and unbleached.
The story of early animal husbandry is most clearly
illustrated by the practice of using certain breeds of sheep for different
purposes. For example, the fat-tailed variety most commonly used by nomadic
weavers even today has a unique gland near the tail that stores fat during
the abundant months.
When dry or drought conditions persist, the sheep draw
off this reserve of fat. The result is not only that the sheep survive but
also that the wool is constantly nurtured. This oil produces wool of a
consistently high quality with high lanolin content, a factor essential to
the health of the wool. Wool fiber high in lanolin can be bent but shall not snap
under pressure, a factor very important for making carpets. Lanolin poor
wool will not bend underfoot but rather break off at the point of
pressure. This means that a carpet made of poor quality wool will wear
prematurely.
Most wool, including wool imported from New Zealand,
and used in the commercial rug producing areas of China and India is snow
white and probably bleached. Once wool is removed from the sheep the lanolin
content in the wool cannot be increased as connection to the blood flow has
been arrested. Bleaching the wool, dying the wool with abrasive chemical dyes
and mordant all cause further lanolin to be lost and leads to premature wear.
In an unbleached state, wool has hundreds of shades from
light grey, soft brown to black. Antique carpets have the streaky lines of
natural wool colour. These lines are not dirt but rather a sign of provenance
that authentic techniques in wool production and processing were employed.
Bleaching and other abrasive processes also attack the very structure of the wool
fiber. Each wool shaft is covered with tiny overlapping scales running down the
length of the fiber. Bleach and hard dyes cause these discs to become brittle and
break-off causing premature wear. Conversely when these discs are polished and
matted down by the repeated touch of human hands and feet oil from our skin is
deposited on the wool fiber. When the wool fiber becomes highly polished the carpet
develops an inner luminescence and the colours are translated differently into a
warm rich patina.
Our
Valley of a
Thousand Hills™ weaving project uses exclusively
Gazni wool. It is highly regarded as one of the best rug weaving wools in the world. It originates from the legendary sheep from the plains of Gazni in Eastern Afghanistan. Sheep are generally shorn in the spring although some localized herders shear in the fall. Our whole vision is to process the wool as little as possible. No chemical bleaching is employed to create a consistently even colour. As a result, over time and with proper use and care our
Valley of a Thousand Hills™ rugs will increase in value and personality.
(see: Natural Dye Lecture)
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